Midwest

Erica asked why? A fair question. When I saw a Japanese couple gushing over a squirrel in the Public Garden, I realized that medieval villages have become my squirrels. Not that they're rodents or I don't like them, but I've been exposed to them enough that they've got me wanting to see other things. For the last three months or so, wide roads with lots of sky. This trip will mean I've completed visiting all 48 contiguous states. And finally, there's that sign on the Mass Pike, the one that says Second Highest Elevation after Oacama, SD, where I've always wanted to go.

Soo I found myself, after having spilled my miserly guarded fresh French almonds all over my seat neighbor on the plane, chatting her up and learning more about what I should and shouldn't do upon arrival at Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City, MI. That luxury of time proved to be a blessing, allowing me to instead of blasting through Traverse City, stop and have a walk around, chat with a few people and eavesdrop a bit too. Seems like a nice place, right on the lake. It had that feeling of mad primping before the summer hordes arrive. 

They drive large and they drive fast on the UP. A country of Suburbans and  Dodge Rams pulling all kinds of machinery and adult toys.I wondered if humans feel compelled to fill a vast space with vast cars and houses and plates of food. The roads were all cherry farms, all in bloom, looking much like I envisioned in Tom Lake by Ann Patchett. 

They drive em' big.Lots of Impalas too.

Old movie theater, Traverse City

Cherry blossoms on Front Street, Traverse City

Ludington, MI, probably 8pm

A photo Liz sent me last evening of Lake Michigan from her house. We exchanged numbers and almost had dinner together.

Instead of committing to dinner with Liz, I roamed around to a few different places on the lake and took in the vibe. One place, Leland, seemed exactly the same as Falmouth, but on a lake instead of near Buzzards Bay. There was even a T shirt store with the word grape in it. I had meant to also go to Mackinaw Island and Soo Locks, but wasn't feeling it, so  headed south to Ludington. I stopped at the kind of hotel that I have now promised myself I won't stay at anymore. It was fine. But.... If you know me, you know that I am far from squeamish, but even I wouldn't take off my socks. It smelled of carpet deodorizer, giving me the Sophie's choice of airing out the room and listening to Harleys driving by, or sleeping in a smelly room Suffice it to say that tonight I'm on the 10th floor of a nice hotel with a king bed and a view of Lake Monoma. 

These forget-me-nots took my breath away, Leland MI

Leland, MI

Fishtown, or Leland, MI

The SS Badger is a National Historic Monument, which sounded cool, but it turns out that the fuel is historic, still running on coal, it was awful to see all that black smoke spewing out and knowing I was supporting it. Inside the ship, there is a museum, a documentary film, oodles of cafes, a gift shop and the biggest hit, Badger Bingo. It's 4 hours across with an hour before as they put the cars in, so people were resourceful and brought games and books, coloring, crosswords. The weather app had told me the crossing would be rough, and remembering that hellish trip from Brindisi to Corfu in the 80s when everyone got drunk first, then sea sick, I popped two dramamine, but then couldn't keep my eyes open, fell asleep drooling on my book, snorted myself awake. Oh well, they're an understanding people.

There was one woman with not a hair out of place who was watching a movie on her iPad while making some kind of paper decorations, she had brought all manner of tools and materials. And then there was the family of four, parents of an adult male and his wife, who sat together and played rumikub right next to me, it was impossible not to listen. They were so very kind to each other and had such a nice time together, as it seems most midwesterners are, comfortable in each other's presence. I wondered if it's only in the major metropolitan areas of the US that people are so stressed and disconnected. 

I lied when I said I'd never sneak a photo again. Check those pretty things out

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The Rumikub family. And yes, another one I snuck. Mother and son are the spitting image of each other. 

Lakeside Rothko

The S. S. Badger spewing

Floating on the state line and the time zone line

Alway like to slip in a little Wes Anderson

The ferry arrived in Manitowoc WI, and from there it was a coffee stop in Sheboygan, which was sweet. And then not a long drive to Milwaukee, where I intended to spend the night, but felt no compulsion to stay after roaming around the Historic Third Ward and getting the vibe. So it was on to Madison, where there will be what has been called one of the best farmer's markets in the world (hmm, says this skeptical Aix citizen, let's see about that...) tomorrow morning.  I love the roads here, they're concrete or cement instead of asphalt. The lighter color is really nice to look at. 

​I have to learn not to make food assumptions. I ordered yogurt with blueberries and bananas this morning and it was sweetened, and then tonight I ordered black beans, and they were refried, like liquid. Good thing I've got a loaf of sprouted whole wheat, a jar of peanut butter AND a jar of marmite!

​Over and out. 

Manitowoc, WI

Sheboygan, which I really liked, it wasn't all old and broken down like this photograph, but this is the one I took

Silly T shirt at the Milwaukee food (hmm, and I guess t-shirt) market

Milwaukee